Known, at least in my book, for more traditional, feminine shapes–a curve here, a cut-out there–BCBGMAXAZRIA went smartly atypical for Spring/Summer 2014. A traditional trench became a dress, a traditional spring dress took on more complicated, deconstructed shapes that were still feminine with a bright floral here and a floating swath of silk there. It was nice to see such innovation for spring, in the unusual cut-outs of a structured but soft cotton jumpsuit colorblocked with cream, aqua and khaki and a snake-embossed white leather asymmetrical skirt. Other favorites included a white paneled cotton crop top, a drop-waist bare pink sleeveless dress, and a blue floral and cream silk gown. And if BCBG predicts the future, the high-low hemlines will return along with the warmer temperatures next year.
One idea that struck me in particular is not so much how the clothes can make the woman, but how the woman can make the clothes. Backstage, one of the notes left for the models was “Confident, Strong, Effortlessly Cool, The Most Beautiful Girl in the World” to give them an idea of how to walk down the runway. Interestingly, these notes also colored my impression of the show. To wear the BCBG Spring/Summer 2014 collection, these were all characteristics one had to possess. Because when you are not confident in yourself, how can you possibly pull off floral trousers with sheer striping or a form-free black-and-nude floral print gown? The two simply do not compute. The woman wearing the BCBG Spring/Summer 2014 collection feels the breeze in her hair before the clothes on her back and that makes her clothes look all the more beautiful. Such an idea was complemented by natural makeup (by Val Garland for Sephora) and hair (by Laurent Philippon for Bumble and Bumble), as well as a lighter-than-air playlist featuring Daughter’s ethereal rendition of Daft Punk and Pharrell’s “Get Lucky.”
Spring/Summer collections can get boring–big, loud colors, lots of flowers, etc.–but BCBG stays true to its eternal elegance while still surprising and thinking ahead. Other collections, as always, have much to live up to!
Take a look here for some shots behind the scenes (all by me!), and view the collection here on New York Magazine’s The Cut.