Georgia debates the new collaboration between Ed Hardy and Missguided – asking the question of whether the brand might be ‘selling their soul’ to more fast fashion-orientated companies like Missguided, possibly moving towards more of a financial incentive than free-spirited brand approach. However, has the price inclusivity of this collaboration opened up the Ed Hardy market to those who cannot afford to drop ÂŁÂŁÂŁ on their original collection or collabs?
Ed Hardy is an alternative fashion brand that utilised the expressive art form of the American tattoo and inserted it into the fashion loop. Most of the pieces are heavy graphic designs, embellished with rhinestones and the infamous skull and crossbone design. Originally licensed in the early 2000s, it is considered as a y2k, vintage brand with timeless pieces that are difficult to get your hands on.
On their website, they pride themselves on âstriving to empower the free-spirited by defining their unique self with conviction and creativity.â Although Ed Hardy has always been consistently popular through the years, more recently, it collaborated with the new cult British brand âUnknown Londonâ to mix avant garde imagery with streetwear style. The first drop sold out within minutes in a one time, exclusive batch.
Whilst these pieces were immensely popular and praised for their individuality, the price for a hoodie and matching sweatpants came to a whopping ÂŁ280 pounds – which, for a student (or anyone!!), is unrealistic and unaffordable.Â
At the beginning of February 2022, Ed Hardy announced another collaboration, this time with the global, high street fashion brand: Missguided. Seeing this announcement, I was shocked that they had succumbed to huge financial incentives by partnering with a fast fashion brand so quickly after Unknown London. Missguided have been inundated with many controversies over the years: mainly complaints of poor labour conditions and a lack of sustainability.
Seeing this partnership all over TikTok, I delved into the comments to see the general consensus. Many people believe that this edit strips Ed Hardy of its niche identity and authenticity by defacing their unique personality and claim of originality. Looking at the collection myself, I would have to agree. Lots of the clothes in the collection seem to just be the typical Missguided styles, but plastered with Ed Hardy tropes.
The stereotypical slinky racer neck bodysuit is a piece available in the edit, littered with the tattoo style graphic. The fact that Ed Hardy has swayed away from their core pieces to instead produce âbodysuitsâ, âcropped jumpersâ and âmesh cropped shirtsâ to fit Missguidedâs fashion criteria has tarnished Hardy’s iconic identity as a brand. The material is also fashioned from 95% polyester – which is non-biodegradable and toxic to the planet.
The fact that the edit is already on sale feeds mass over-production.Â
Not only has their uniqueness been forfeited, but Ed Hardy was considered a slow fashion brand. This term was coined by professor Kate Fletcher, who defines it as âquality-based rather than time-basedâ movement, as it encourages: slower production, sustainability, and asks consumers to invest in clothes that will stand the test of time. One Tik Tok user complained that the slow fashion community took Ed Hardy under its wing, just for them to sabotage the movement with the likes of Missguided.
If you use Depop, a search of Ed Hardy will bring up thousands of results, with users selling hoodies for up to ÂŁ200, even though retail prices are typically ÂŁ75. Although this purchase may tick the sustainability box, these prices are extremely unfeasible for students who are wanting to hop on the y2k style bandwagon.
This made me think – has Missguided simply made Ed Hardy more accessible for the people who don’t fancy being exploited by depop sellers?
One TikTok user expressed thankfulness that âMissguided have allowed people who canât afford vintage Ed Hardy to get on trendâ. Considering this, the edit does also have a range of sizes, therefore more inclusive and accessible than the rarer pieces on Depop. Plus, the Missguided collection is a lot cheaper.
This is where the Catch-22 comes into play.
It is completely understandable for students to be buying from Missguided rather than forking out a small fortune on depop. But, the bigger question is – have Ed Hardy shot themselves in the foot? Although this collaboration undoubtedly brought in major coin, in the long run it was not their best decision. From iconic low rise mini skirts and oversized hoodies to black mesh leggings and flares – Ed Hardy have really sold themselves to the fast fashion world.
Is the damage irreparable?
The fact that most of the collection is still in stock speaks for itself!