Anniesa Hasibuan made history on the world fashion stage at New York Fashion Week this year. The Indonesian born fashion designer curated a show inspired by her beloved hometown Jakarta, where all the women rocked silk hijabs.Â
Media all over the world went into a frenzy after the event, unanimously applauding her decision to dress the models in traditional Islamic headwear.Â
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The collection brought the best of Indonesian culture on to the catwalk. Consisting of 48 ready-to-wear pieces and 10 evening gowns in an iridescent pastel palette, Hasibuan brought together tailored, high-power trouser suits, capes, chiffon column skirts, blazers, waist cinching silk belts and sequins in the most perfectly elegant way. A personal favourite of mine was the Kanye-esque metallic aviators, complete with silver flowers!Â
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Hasibuan’s clothing breaks down boundaries in so many ways. The hijab is of course important here, but her clothes are the real stars of the show. She integrates western looks with traditional Muslim ideas surrounding dress. She demonstrates and celebrates the beauty of cultures coming together through the medium of fashion. Boldly stepping on to an American stage, Hasbibuan’s clothes confront the Islamophobia that is rife in a country where at the moment, intolerance trumps (no pun intended).
The shows comes as a part of a growing trend called the “Modesty Movement” with Dolce and Gabbana releasing a line of hijabs and abaya’s, targeted at affluent Muslim customers. Hasibuan gracefully demonstrates that modesty doesn’t mean boring and doesn’t mean you cant be glamorous. Â
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The designer, at 28 years young and after just a year of being in the business, received global recognition and a (nearly unheard of) standing ovation at the New York show. Anniesa, a hijab wearer herself, and her beautiful clothes represent creative freedom and professional accomplishment. It’s a perfect vehicle to reduce the stigma that surrounds the hijab and its associations with oppression. Â
However, bringing the hijab centre stage doesn’t come without its complications. Fashion Week sets out what’s hot and what’s not for the coming year, with its looks copied by retailers all over the world. Is there a danger of making hijabs mainstream? Will it undermine its religious significance and result in the consumer appropriating an important symbol for our own fleeting trends?Â
Hasibuan’s models were still conventionally beautiful, able-bodied, size 0 and even despite her cultural background: Western. Fashion Week in general still has a long way to go from here, but it is definitely strutting in the right direction.Â
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