Trigger warning: this article discusses eating disorders and negative body image, please read at your own discretion.
On the 15th of October, Victoria Secret hosted their first fashion show in 6 years. After announcing their return in May, there was much anticipation around it with over 2.5 million viewers worldwide; however, its success and whether it will result in a resurgence in brand popularity is still up for debate.
The show saw the exciting return of some of the most iconic angels including Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Alessandra Ambrosio and the Hadid sisters to name a few. The nostalgia even stretched beyond that of 2010s teens by featuring 90s supermodels Tyra Banks and Kate Moss. I think it’s safe to say that jaws dropped when Kate Moss appeared in a black lace ensemble to the live soundtrack of ‘I love Rock N Roll’. The lineup of live performers was equally impressive with performances from Lisa, Tyla and of course… Cher. Although, we don’t know if even this could beat The Weeknd singing to then girlfriend Bella Hadid back in their 2016 glory days. People estimate the whole event to have cost between $10-12 million which is similar to their past shows, showing how invested Victoria Secret is in redeeming their past reputation and fulfilling the expectations of their audience.
Despite this, many fans said the show lacked the same levels of glamour as before. The runway itself was described as lacklustre as it wasn’t on a platform and was stark and plastic as opposed to its previous pink, sparkly look. It also seemed to be poorly assembled as one model tripped over a loose panel, which interrupted the illusion of perfection and professionalism that the brand relies upon. Fans also missed the iconic Victoria’s Secret bouncy blowouts and were confused that they instead chose slick back ponytails. I guess the clean girl aesthetic can even be found on catwalks now?
Alongside these more trivial critiques of logistics, the lack of body, racial and age diversity unfortunately returned alongside our angels. The appearances of Kate Moss and Tyra Banks, both now 50 years old, could be seen as a celebration of age diversity and a rejection of the sexist beauty standards of youth. However, this important message was undermined as they were both dressed in outfits that were significantly more modest and concealing than those of the younger models. This same pattern of behaviour could be seen for plus sized models in attendance: Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser, who were portrayed and dressed as a “tokenism of plus-size women”. Critics have said that this demonstrates the same lack of inclusion that got them cancelled in 2018 as they don’t even allow the small number of diverse models that they do have to even embody the same fantasy as their size 0 or more youthful counterparts.
This leads to another criticism of the show: whether its return could be detrimental to eating disorder culture and people’s body image. With eating disorders at an all time high, affecting 9% of Americans, the timing of this return be catastrophic, seeing as the average Angel’s measurements are completely unattainable to the majority of the population. Many of the angels themselves have been open about their struggles with eating disorders and the impossible beauty standards they are held to. Alongside this, controversial practices including diet pills and not eating solid foods for 9 days before a show supports journalist Michelle Knostantinovsky’s accusation that the brand “perpetuates a dangerous fantasy” both for their employees and their young, impressionable audience.
In conclusion, it is safe to say the return of Victoria Secret’s fashion show was riddled with controversy and criticism. However, after their failed rebrand in 2021, many argue that this nostalgic, star-studded affair was exactly what fans had been asking for. Their return definitely fulfilled the fantasy and luxury that is expected from the brand and they have recently pledged to become a “world leading advocate for women”. However, despite their highly televised return, Victoria Secret sales continue to decline since their peak in 2016, which suggests even Cher and a multi-million dollar budget won’t be enough to create a brand resurgence. Moreover, their troubling lack of diversity and vast influence on their young fans creates an eerily familiar debate: can their shows simply be harmless, escapism or does their perpetuation of toxic beauty standards rule the brand a glamorous ghost best left in the past?