Have you ever wondered why some of the most viral beauty trends on TikTok originate from Asia? From achieving the juiciest skin to innovative makeup techniques, Asian beauty trends have a significant impact on the global beauty scene.
In South Korea, beauty enthusiasts turn to Hawhae (화해), an app bursting with weekly product rankings and real consumer reviews, to stay at the forefront of K-beauty. Meanwhile, in China, XiaoHongShu (小红书) reigns supreme, offering a vast array of C-beauty trends and product recommendations from a diverse range of brands.
In both communities, beauty shopping platforms like Olive Young Korea and Tao Bao China also offer rankings for the best selling beauty products in the nation. Let’s take a look at what is trending in Korea and China and how we can incorporate them into our 2024.
Skincare ingridients : Centella asiatica, heartleaf Extract
We have all heard or even used products that contain active ingredients like vitamin C which promises skin brightening effects. But in South Korea, the spotlight often shines on revolutionary skincare ingredients, ones that promise not just superficial beauty but also deep, nourishing care. Take, for instance, Centella Asiatica, a plant with remarkable healing properties. Hailed as a ‘miracle elixir’ in Korean skincare, this ingredient has been a game-changer for those seeking anti-inflammatory and hydrating solutions. Equally impressive is up and coming ingredient: Heartleaf Extract, an emerging favourite in the world of K-beauty. Derived from a plant revered for its soothing abilities, this extract has become a go-to for those battling sensitive or acne-prone skin.
A 2023 research highlights Centella Asiatica’s rich composition of phenolic compounds and flavonoids, which are crucial in combating skin damage from UV rays and pollution. Furthermore, a 2021 study underscores its abundance in amino acids, vital for soothing and hydrating, making it particularly beneficial for dry or sensitive skin. But the wonders of Centella Asiatica don’t stop there. It’s also known for revitalising the skin’s protective barrier.
Both these ingredients represent the core philosophy of Asian skincare: harmonising nature with science for the ultimate skin health. As these ingredients weave their way into creams, serums, and masks, they’re not just a trend but prove to the enduring wisdom of Asian skincare practices.
Korean Toner Pads
Toner pads have been a skincare staple in South Korean households for many years now, revolutionising skincare routines with their ease and multi-functionality. Now, there are over thousands of Korean toner pads on the market due to its popularity. These pre-soaked pads, as Dr. Teresa Song from Marmur Medical notes in a CNN article, simplify application by combining key ingredients like gentle exfoliants and hydrators in a mess-free format. But their benefits extend beyond convenience. As Dr. Paul Nassif, facial plastic surgeon and co-host of ‘Botched,’ explains aslo in the CNN article, toner pads do more than just cleanse. They balance pH levels, detoxify, and prepare the skin for further treatment, countering environmental stressors. Their texture aids in gentle exfoliation, while the infused solution targets specific skincare needs.
Korean toner pads, focusing on hydration and a variety of functional actives and botanicals, such as Centella or Heartleaf as mentioned above, cater to different skin concerns, whereas American brands often emphasize active ingredients like AHAs and BHAs for targeted concerns. Batis, an expert in the field, suggests using different pads for different areas, such as astringent pads for an oily T-zone and hydrating pads for dry spots. A popular way to use these toner pads, that many Korean celebrities use, is as a mini sheet mask by leaving on 2-3 pads on the cheeks and forehead, offering an intensive treatment when left on the skin. However, a note of caution from Dr. Song: their physical nature can be abrasive, so those with sensitive skin should use them carefully.
Double CLeansing : Oil cleaner + Water based Cleanser
Double cleansing, a staple in Korean skincare, has garnered acclaim for its thorough yet gentle approach to maintaining a pristine complexion. Explained by Dermatologist Dr. Brendan Camp for Byrdie, this two-step cleansing method starts with an oil-based cleanser to dissolve makeup, oil, and residue. This initial step is crucial for emulsifying surface impurities, setting the stage for a deeper cleanse. Following this, a water-based cleanser is used to meticulously remove lingering impurities like sweat, ensuring a completely clean skin surface. Charlotte Cho, emphasises the importance of cleansing as the foundation of a healthy complexion. She points out that excess oil, dirt, and bacteria can lead to premature aging, dark spots, and breakouts, making regular and effective cleansing vital. Not only does it keep the skin in optimal condition, but it also enhances the application and look of makeup by providing a clean and smooth canvas.
Another benefit of using an oil cleanser is its ability to lift out excess oils and substances from your pores such as sebaceous filaments, blackheads and whiteheads, acting as a gentle exfoliator to your skin. This is especially useful for not only those with oily skin but those living in climates with lots of pollution like Seoul in South Korea or London in the UK.
Glass Hair: Using hair masks Pre-Hair Wash
The ‘glass skin’ trend, a huge hit in Asian skincare, has now inspired a haircare sensation on the Chinese social media platform XiaoHongShu, aptly named ‘glass hair.’ This trend, emerging in mid-2023, promises a glossy, doll-like shine, transforming hair into a lustrous mane. The secret lies in a unique pre-wash treatment: a blend of hair mask, a popular favourite is the Japnese Shiseido Fino Premium Touch, mixed with a few drops of oil. While baby oil was the go-to choice for influencers on XiaoHongShu, Western enthusiasts often opt for specialised hair oils. For this DIY concoction, maintaining a three-to-one ratio of mask to oil ensures the perfect balance. Apply this mix to dry hair, focusing on mid-lengths to ends, and avoid the scalp to prevent a greasy look. Some beauty gurus suggest using a shower cap to enhance absorption, though this step can be skipped. After letting it work its magic for about 30 minutes, a rinse reveals incredibly smooth and vibrant hair, rivaling salon-quality results.
This blend has gone viral for proving not only the shinest glass like hair but also for being deeply nourishing, leaving hair soft and supple. The ‘glass hair’ trend, now a global phenomenon, now has many Chinese beauty lovers incorporating other pre-wash hair masks into their weekly hair care routines for its long term benefits on their hair.
KNowing Your Face: Undertones, Seasons and visual Weight
19C, 21N, 23W: These are the standardised foundation shade numbers in the K-beauty world. In the world of K-beauty, understanding your foundation shade is essential, and it’s surprisingly straightforward, if your are 21N in one brand, you are most likely also a 21N in another. But what do these numbers mean? It’s your undertones: N is neutral, C is cool and W is warm. It’s standardised practice to know your undertone in K-beauty, but this applies not only to your makeup but also to your clothing choices and hair colour. It has now further evolved into not just your undertone but also your seasonal colours: spring, summer, autum and winter. The benefits of knowing your undertone helps you with looking your best through the colour theory, enhancing your skin tone and helping you look more coherent, playing an important role in helping you look your best.
Another more recent addition to this trend is about understanding your face shape and structure. This trend focuses on the visual weight of your face, namely whether it is high or low. High visual weight refers to a person who has more prominent features. Think of Angelina Jolie, she has big eyes, high cheekbones and big lips. Low visual weight on the other hand pertains to those with features that are less pronounced: their eyes, nose, cheeks and lips aren’t super prominent compared to the rest of her face. This is used to determine the style of makeup that your facial features would look the best with. Those with low visual weight would suit softer makeup style due to their features whereas those with high visual weight would look better with bolder makeup styles. Korean makeup artists, for instance, might opt for bold eyeliner on someone with high visual weight but choose softer styles for those with low visual weight to maintain balance. Determining your visual weight involves assessing your facial features and proportions. One of my favorite resources for this is a video guide, which offers a simple way to understand and apply these concepts to your beauty routine
Jelly lips: Glossy Lip Tints
While the Western beauty world often associates long-lasting lip colors with matte finishes, which can be drying, Asian beauty trends have innovated a more hydrating solution: glossy lip tints. These tints provide the best of both worlds – the shine of a gloss and the lasting power of a stain, creating the coveted ‘jelly lips’ look.
A standout in this category is the Juicy Lasting Tint from South Korean brand Romand. Available in a variety of shades, from delicate pinks to deep reds and earthy browns, these tints glide on like a gloss but leave behind a lasting stain as the glossy finish wears off. This dual-action means fewer touch-ups and a comfortable, moisturizing feel throughout the day.
Recently, the Chinese brand Judydoll has entered the scene with their Ice Watery Lip Gloss, a direct competitor to Romand’s offering. This product mirrors the initial glossy application, providing a similarly lustrous look. However, it differs in its wear-off process. Instead of fading like a traditional lipstick, the Judydoll gloss sheds only its clear, glossy top layer, leaving a fully colored lip underneath. This innovative approach ensures the lips remain vividly tinted, even as the initial gloss diminishes.
MattE HighLighting
In a striking divergence from the Western trend of shimmery, shiny highlighters, a new Chinese beauty trend is gaining popularity: using a pale pink or even white blush as a highlighter. This trend is especially noticeable on platforms like XiaoHongShu, where influencers and beauty enthusiasts showcase their looks. Unlike the typical highlighters that aim for a glittery glow, this approach focuses on a more natural, matte finish, in line with the Chinese beauty ideal of matte skin.
To achieve this look, the blush, often in very light pink or pure white shades, is applied not just to the cheeks but also below the eyes and on other high points of the face. This technique subtly enhances these areas, creating a soft, luminous effect without the overt sparkle. It’s a method that echoes the aesthetic of understated elegance, a hallmark of Chinese beauty standards.
Leading the charge in this trend are local Chinese cosmetic brands like Flower Knows, who have introduced a range of products specifically tailored for this style. These products are designed to complement the natural skin tone while maintaining a matte finish, offering a gentle lift and brightness to the face without the overt shine. This trend underscores a broader shift in beauty preferences, where more natural, subdued looks are becoming increasingly sought after, challenging the conventional norms of highlight-heavy makeup.
Colour Correcting Base as a primer
Stepping away from the Western approach to makeup primers, which primarily focus on prolonging makeup wear or hydrating the skin, Asian beauty trends bring an innovative twist with color correcting tone-up bases. These primers are not just a preparatory step for makeup; they’re a game-changer in achieving a flawless canvas.
Typically available in various hues, each colour addresses specific skin concerns. The most common are green to neutralise redness, purple to brighten dull complexions, and pink to provide an overall tone enhancement. Unlike some Western primers that are mainly functional, these tone-up bases offer both correction and beautification. They’re so effective in evening out skin tone and texture that many choose to wear them alone, showcasing their natural skin with a subtle, improved appearance.
Moreover, these products often come with added benefits like SPF, providing essential sun protection. Popular Asian beauty brands have mastered the art of combining skincare with makeup, ensuring that these primers not only prepare the skin for makeup but also protect and nourish it
OMBre CAt Eye Nails
Another captivating trend making waves in the Chinese beauty scene is the ombre cat eye (猫眼) nail style. This trend marries the mysterious allure of the cat eye nail—a design known for its magnetic, light-reflecting properties—with the seamless, gradient-like transition of ombre. The result is a sophisticated and enchanting nail art that’s as mesmerizing as it is modern. To achieve this look, nail artists use a special cat eye nail polish, which contains tiny particles that react to magnets. By skilfully applying a magnet over the nail, they create the signature cat eye effect—a striking line that seems to float over the nail’s surface. The ombre element is then introduced by blending different shades, either in a vertical or horizontal gradient, adding depth and complexity to the design. This technique allows for endless colour combinations and patterns, making each manicure uniquely tailored to individual preferences. Popular among fashion-forward individuals and social media influencers on platforms like Weibo and DouYin, ombre cat eye nails have become a symbol of sophistication and a fresh twist on traditional nail art. They perfectly encapsulate the innovative spirit of Chinese beauty trends, offering a playful yet elegant way to express personal style.