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Cosmetic racism and the role of beauty in black women’s self-esteem

This article is written by a student writer from the Her Campus at Casper Libero chapter.

Common sense says that putting on makeup highlights a person’s own beauty. But how can you do that if the product doesn’t fit your skin tone? It’s disappointing to see brands who think it’s acceptable to exclude a large part of the population by launching a product that only works for white skin. A black woman shouldn’t have any trouble finding her shade, but the struggle exists and the fight to end it won’t stop until all brands learn the message.

Empowerment is for everyone

This lack of shades on the market has a name, and it’s called cosmetic racism. Calling it out is important, because it’s not just a mistake, but a lack of inclusion, it’s saying that you don’t have a place here. Makeup isn’t just for empowering white people, it should cater for all skin types, especially since the same pigments sold to formulate products for white skin also include black skin.

A black woman’s self-esteem is important, and it’s not right to think that launching just one shade for dark skin covers the entire black population, as if they didn’t have undertones or different skin tones. It’s mentally and emotionally draining to always be in a teaching position when the beauty industry, also including racist people, disrespect the ethnicity, culture and complexions of a person of color.

How a brand should act

The first thing for makeup brands, when producing a product, is to think about whether these colors will suit everyone and whether something needs to be changed in the formulation to achieve this. And it’s essential that the beauty industry doesn’t pretend that nothing is happening, change the formulation or launch new products. Silence is very likely to alienate a range of people of color, as it gives the impression that it’s okay to exclude them.

Rhode is an example of a brand that recognized the mistake when it launched blushes that didn’t look good on straight black skin, especially those with a cool undertone. After this factor went viral on the internet, the brand listened to consumers and said that new shades of blush were in production. 

@golloria

bravo. your voice can elicit change. wonderfully done, thank you for listening to black women!

♬ original sound – golloria

Black influencers to follow

Speaking only of good things now, here are some wonderful black influencers to support and love.

Golloria George (@Golloria)

We couldn’t start any differently, as Golloria makes many videos that go viral when she tests the darker shades of a brand or if the product works in a person of color. She also has many recommendations to show for women with the same skin tone.

Mirella Qualha (@Iamirella)

It was during the pandemic that she started recording content. Mirella tests products and answers comments from her followers, debunking some myths about makeup on black skin. Her idea is to bring representativeness and give tips to other black women.

MissDarcei (@missdarcei)

Darcei has been creating beauty content for more than a decade, but in 2022 it grew rapidly because of YouTube Shorts where she posts lots of makeup tips and tricks. She currently has numerous partnerships, including Tirtir, a Korean brand that has launched 40 shades of their cushion foundation.

Mari Lobo (@Lobomari) 

In addition to makeup content, Mari brings fashion and lifestyle to her followers. She even has a project, tousandobiquini, which encourages women and show that there is beauty and diversity in bodies.

bonus: Tássio Santos (@Herdeiradabeleza)

In Brazil, he was the first to name this lack of shade for black people as cosmetic racism. Tássio is a journalist and professional make-up artist who runs Herdeira da Beleza, where he posts content aimed at helping black people find good make-up products that will actually work on dark skin. He has a book Tem Minha Cor” with reflections that he has been raising during ten years of digital production.

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The article above was edited by Victória Abreu.

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Livia Nomoto

Casper Libero '22

Hii! I’m Livia, a journalism student at Casper Libero. I'm obsessed with books, movies, fashion, beauty, pop culture and a few other things.