The following collections have been the talk of fashion lovers for their innovative approaches
The Paris Fashion Week for fall/winter 2024 took place between February 26 and March 5. The nine-day event was attended by leading names in the niche, such as Dior, Off-White, Rabanne, Loewe, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, Mugler and Lacoste. Although all the brands left the public in love with their productions, some stood out to the point of leaving internet users commenting on the shows for days.
The aim of PFW, the first fashion week in Paris, was conceived by American publicist Eleanor Lambert in 1943. She created Press Week, bringing together fashion communications professionals and American designers to promote their brands. The event has evolved to the level it is today, becoming a time for brands to show the world their work for each season.
Fashion weeks take place in three categories – Haute Couture, Prêt-à-porter and Resort. The first opens the season and stands out for offering at least 35 exclusive looks. Here’s a look at the names that stayed in the spotlight this season.
Chanel
Chanel has been widely praised for presenting one of the most memorable shows of the last Paris Fashion Week. During the event, the renowned French brand presented its winter collection, inspired by the atmosphere of Deauville, a picturesque region in the north of France.
Incorporating fashion elements reminiscent of local fishermen and sailors, the label brought an innovative approach to women’s closets, introducing sporty pieces such as naval shirts, jersey sweaters and wellies. This mix of references resulted in a more diverse range of clothing options for women, breaking with the restrictive standards of previous fashion – such as the tight corsets of the Belle Époque – and creating a look marked by casualness and comfort.
MIU MIU
In contrast to the era of intense focus on artificial intelligence and technology, Miu Miu surprised us by choosing human memory and emotions as the theme for its Winter 2024 collection. In an innovative move, Miuccia Prada proposed an inclusive closet for all ages, highlighted by the presence of older models on the catwalk, a pleasant surprise for the public.
The concept behind the collection goes beyond the diversity of women; it’s about representing a single woman at different times in her life. By drawing inspiration from the breadth and evolution of people’s lives, and the relationship between their clothes and the development of their characters, Miu Miu proposes pieces that accompany all stages of the human journey, built on personal memories and experiences.
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood‘s winter show, under the creative direction of Andreas Kronthaler, redefined the traditional by introducing maximalist and surprising elements. Inspired by the Renaissance and influenced by the art of Giovanni Battista Moroni, the collection presented a unique aesthetic, marked by dramatic overlays, extravagant prints and historical references.
The artistic performance that opened the event, with a folk dance group, emphasized the eccentric and theatrical atmosphere of the maison’s fashion shows. The bold use of volume, plaid, sporty trench coats and touches of coquette aesthetics, such as bows and classic colors like black, demonstrated Kronthaler’s ability to balance tradition and innovation, creating a truly memorable collection.
CHLOÉ
Chloé made quite a splash with its first fashion show under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali. Although she has worked at the label before, this was her first time as creative director, taking over from Gabriela Hearst. With a degree from Central Saint Martins and experience at brands such as Saint Laurent, Kamali brought a new perspective to the French maison.
Inspired by the 1970s, the designer captured the boho essence of Chloé, creating a versatile and timeless collection. The flowing, romantic pieces merged with modern elements, echoing the ideals established by Gaby Aghion, the brand’s founder. The collection stood out for its sensuality and lightness, incorporating daring elements such as the “Free The Nipple” movement, eye-catching belts and creative styling tricks.
Loewe
Inspired by the works of Albert York, Loewe‘s creative director Jonathan Anderson addressed the concept of luxury in contemporary times. During the brand’s winter show at Paris Fashion Week, spectators were immersed in a fusion between art and fashion, with elements from York’s paintings coming to life in the looks presented. The collection stood out for its country style, with floral prints on dresses and shoes, as well as unexpected accessories. The wide silhouette and large belts defied traditional conventions, while the embroidered details and collars made of wood chips incorporated complex handcrafted elements.
By exploring not only the aesthetics but also the history behind York’s works, the collection questioned the meaning of luxury and craftsmanship in the contemporary era, reflecting on how these values evolve over time and in different cultural contexts.
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The article above was edited by Mariana do Patrocínio.
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