Last weekened, the Shopping Iguatemi and Komplexo Tempo venues were marked by the N54 edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW). With the theme SPFW + IN-PACTOS, 48 Brazilian brands presented their new fashion concepts from November 16th to on Sunday, November 20th. Still as a ‘sequel’ to the post-pandemic context, the runways took place in a hybrid way. In addition to the fashion shows, Senac had a series of masterclasses with fashion specialists such as Angela Brito and Dudu Bertholini and free classes on topics such as Fashion and Activism, Trends and Journalism.
We had the veterans of the fashion show, the beloved brands of SPFW such as Bold Strap and the premieres: Buzina, Greg Joey, Heloisa Faria and Maurício Duarte. Until last year, the event was exclusive for guests, but in this edition, it was the first time that there were tickets up for purchase.
patrícia vieira
The fashion show that premiered SPFW was Patrícia Vieira‘s. The brand opened a store in Shopping Iguatemi with pieces in 80s style, reminiscent of clubs with a current vibe, betting on different metallic tones, mainly purple, green and silver. Glitter appeared in looks and make-up.
In addition, the stylist is an environmental activist – she used material provided by Leather Labs, a digital platform that facilitates access to tracked leather, that is, with a certificate and low environmental impact.
meninos rei
A brazilian brand that is always successful on social media after its fashion shows is Meninos Rei. In this edition, the theme was Where Art is Born. The runway was opened with a concert by singer Psirico and was attended by celebrities such as Jojo Toddynho and Deborah Secco.
It’s one of the brands that have a very well-placed identity in the market. If you’re a regular fashion fan, it’s impossible not to recognize Meninos Rei on the catwalk: the brand brings ancestry and African roots as inspiration and is full of vibrant colors.
Puffed sleeves, fabrics that define the silhouette and straight cut were the highlights. The brand also brings representativeness in its casting, with different body types, races and even people with disabilities having their space.
renata buzzo
Renata Buzzo‘s bet is on romantic aesthetics – which is, actually, a trademark of the stylist, who specializes in reusing fabrics and pieces.
Besides of the beautiful pieces, the brand needs to be highlighted for its awareness: Renata Buzzo is vegan and slow fashion, which means that their products cause less damage to the environment. In general, in the last editions, but especially in this one, environmental activism was on the agenda and of extreme relevance. But there is even more behind it – the profound theme used by the stylist, the anti-asylum fight and the victims of madness diagnoses, comes from her own history. She opted for light and pastel colors such as off-white, blue and beige, in addition to hospital gown ties.
walério araújo
Going to the other extreme, we have the show by Walério Araújo. The stylist presented a gothic footprint with almost all the pieces in black with a few touches of purple.
The looks brought a lot of the 2010s with a lot of brightness and even the skull and cross print, which was a trend among generation Z during pre-adolescence. In addition, it had a lot of cleavage, sensuality and bare skin – the stylist’s trademark – and featured feathers, velvet, overlays and a lot (a lot!) of glitter.
The runway had the rap singer Xamã, the funk singer Valesca Popozuda, the drag queen Hallessia and the DJ Johnny Luxo in the catwalk.
bold strap
Surprisingly, as always, Bold Strap completely renews the collection, but always with its main feature: fetishcore.
In this edition, they brought an alien world, but not the common science fiction movie, a totally cute footprint, bordering on the ridiculous. It is worth mentioning the low waist was in almost all pieces, another brand that was inspired by Y2K. Lots of body dye, plush, transparency and vibrant makeup. Also, the brand was attended by the businesswoman and influencer Bianca Andrade and the model and actress Camila Queiroz.
greg joey
Another brand full of representation is Greg Joey, created by Lucas Danuello. The name refers to the sender of the correspondence with a gay sex tape in the 90s. The new Slasher Tour collection brings references to cult horror movies with a lot of lightness as in the pleated blue jumpsuit or in the combination of t-shirts. Always with lively tones.
misci
The stylist Airon Martin, responsible for the Misci show, signs the Jerimum collection, in reference to the pumpkin from fairy tales that turns into a carriage, according to the Brazilian Northeastern vocabulary.
He used many references from the automobile world of the 70s and 90s. The earthy tones and leather are the hallmarks of the collection. Celebrities in full force in the runway such as the presenter Giovanna Ewbank, the influencer Mari Gonzalez and the actors João Guilherme and Enzo Celulari. The highlight goes to the gasoline gallon bag, a reference to the high price of the product.
lilly sarti
The Lilly Sarti group paraded with its new brand: relow, bringing a streetwear and urban footprint with an emphasis on overlays and a mix of different prints and colors. The brand had the collaboration of Jesuíta Barbosa, due to the actor’s hybrid DNA, and fashion influencer Jordanna Maia, targeting a young audience. One of the influencer’s requests was the composition of some looks with vinyl.
Lilly Sarti herself was not left out. Its new summer collection, Desejo, is inspired by Azerbaijan and the Incas, playing with ancestry and futurism. Many metallic, transparent and beaded looks marked the catwalk, bringing a vintage cool. The color chart reinforces this ‘ancestry’ linked to nature, highlighting variations of green, blue and earthy tones.
moda de pedro
Representing the northeastern Brazilian hinterland, we have the debut of Moda de Pedro on the SPFW catwalks with the Contradição collection. Inspired by the culture of his land, he wanted to show the strength of the Northeast and not just the need as seen in other parts of the country.
Also, duality is very strong in his collection, good and evil. All looks convey lightness and many overlaps, fringes and crochet were used, highlighting the handwork.
another place
Another Place‘s Love Hurts collection was inspired by the phases of love, from conquest and falling in love to breakup and loneliness.
The audiovisual content contributed to the presentation divided into three parts. In the beginning, a lot of brightness, cleavage and transparency were used. In the end, the pieces had a destroyed footprint and the use of heavier materials like leather, as a purpose to show the wear and tear of the relationship.
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The article above was edited by Mariana do Patrocínio.
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