On June 24th, Schiaparelli opened the Haute Couture fashion week and showed the brand’s new face through the creativity of Daniel Roseberry, the brand’s creative director. Could this be the designer’s renaissance?
The name of this collection is The Phoenix, a mythological creature that, when it died, caught fire and rose from its own ashes. Perhaps, Roseberry’s current philosophy is a metaphor for resignification and resurrection, and it was no surprise that he started the show with an outfit with Phoenix wings.
Until then, the creative director has masterfully revived Elsa Schiaparelli‘s legacy, with literal surrealism, using fragments of the human body coated in gold to present the designer’s work to a new generation, who did not know her. But how repetitive does this get?
Daniel Roseberry incorporated the Fênix from his collection and presented another face of Schiaparelli, also revisited, with many inspirations from vintage archives, but with the designer’s style, dripping elegance and sensuality. And what a way to “revive” sexy.
Black and white remain as the base, but the textures that accompany them bring more authenticity to the productions, with fluff produced by embroidery, and sculptural volumes that highlight the sensuality exuded by the collection.
The production is lighter, more exciting and sinuous. The elongated necklines, transparencies, and sculptural volumes highlight that, after so many years, sexy is returning, in a less obvious way.
The meticulous manual work of Haute Couture was manifested in all the small details of the collection, such as the layered stitching that was present at the hem of the clothes, or the applications of soft spikes on the tight, perfectly designed pieces. But the brand’s creative and surrealist symbol has not completely disappeared… We noticed that it is also present in the smallest details, such as a heel coming off the model’s back.
Now, it is believed that Daniel Roseberry’s idea is to explore other paths of Schiaparelli’s surrealism. Perhaps the Phoenix metaphor does not mean a total change, but rather the renaissance of the brand within its own DNA.
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The article above was edited by Mariana do Patrocínio.
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