At the New York Historical Society, a fascinating new exhibit titled “Stitching History: Women’s Fashion and the Shifting Role of Women” has brought the evolving styles and stories of women’s fashion to life. The exhibition provides an in-depth look at how clothing has reflected the changing roles, identities, and struggles of women throughout history. With its impressive collection of garments spanning the 18th century to present-day, the exhibit highlights how fashion was not merely a superficial concern, but a mirror of the social and political climates that shaped women’s lives.
On display are a wide variety of garments from ball gowns to office wear. The exhibit thoughtfully examines how women used fashion as a tool for empowerment, rebellion, and self-expression. One of the key features of the exhibit is the way it shows the dramatic transformation in women’s attire and its relationship to shifting gender roles. In the 18th century, women were expected to wear elaborate, structured garments—corsets, full skirts, and intricate dresses—imposing physical constraints that reflected the rigid expectations of women’s roles in society. As history progressed, these restrictive styles gave way to more practical and comfortable clothing, mirroring the rise of women’s participation in the workforce, higher education, and political activism.
At Barnard College, the evolution of women’s fashion can be seen as an embodiment of these very historical shifts. The college, founded in 1889 as an institution for women’s education, has long been a witness to how fashion intersects with social change. Over the decades, Barnard students’ clothing has evolved from the formal, conservative styles of the early 20th century to the more diverse, self-expressive fashions of today.
In the early years of Barnard College, students wore modest clothing, reflecting societal expectations of women at the time. The 1910s and 1920s saw slight changes, with women beginning to adopt the fashionable “flapper” styles that represented newfound freedom and independence in the wake of women’s suffrage. By the mid-20th century, women at Barnard began dressing in a way that balanced academic rigor with the emerging counterculture movements of the 1960s and 1970s. The rise of feminism and the sexual revolution encouraged women to break free from traditional gender norms, and Barnard students embraced more comfortable, casual clothing, such as pantsuits and unstructured garments. One of the most notable transitions in fashion came in the 1980s, when the concept of the power suit became emblematic of the feminist push for workplace equality. Women at Barnard, many of whom were preparing to enter professional environments, embraced the sharp lines and structured silhouettes that became synonymous with women in positions of authority.
The modern-day Barnard student’s fashion choices are a reflection of personal identity and a broader cultural shift towards inclusivity and self-expression. As noted in “Barnard College’s Style Series”, students now favor a diverse array of clothing styles, from vintage-inspired outfits to gender-neutral pieces, reflecting the growing acceptance of fluid gender identities and the expansion of the definition of femininity. This transformation of women’s fashion at Barnard College mirrors the broader cultural trends seen throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. From the suffragists of the early 1900s, who wore simple yet resolute clothing to make a political statement, to the current generation of Barnard students who use fashion as a tool for activism and self-empowerment, the way women dress has always been inextricably linked to the societal contexts in which they live.
The exhibit at the New York Historical Society captures this ongoing narrative, showing how fashion, like history itself, is ever-evolving. In both the museum and the Barnard classroom, the garments of women serve not only as relics of the past but as living symbols of resilience, change, and progress.