It may be the roaring 20’s, but the 1990’s are back in full swing. In times of uncertainty, we often turn to the past for a comforting boost of nostalgia. The previous two years have been anything but certain, and so it was only natural we would find ourselves in an era of vintage revival.
Fashion in the 1990’s was dominated by iconic designers and supermodels. The pre-internet age relied on publications such as Vogue to report on collections. These magazines and newspapers completely controlled the trajectory of trends.
Karl Lagerfeld’s arrival at Chanel signified a move from the conservative style of the 1980’s. He revisited classic pieces, adding a modern touch. For example, the classic bourgeois tweed skirt received a 90’s makeover through the addition of bright colours and shortened hemlines. This feminine aesthetic continued its popularity, evident in Miuccia Prada’s 1992 Spring-Summer collection. Linking ‘the future with the past’, the models wore bouffants and gloves, a clear ode to Jaqueline Kennedy and Bridget Bardot. However, punk fashion was also on the rise with designers like Vivienne Westwood. In her Autumn Winter 1995 collection, the models paraded the runway in a Marie Antoinette manner with cotton hair and white greasepaint makeup, signifying a darker, edgier style.
Off the runway, supermodels were becoming celebrities in their own right, fronting every magazine cover. By the late 1980’s Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista were the most recognizable and in demand models of the time. However, by the mid 1990’s, Kate Moss became the face of the industry. Moss became synonymous with the controversial ‘heroin chic’ look and embodied a grungy carefree minimalistic vibe with a touch of glamour and femininity. The model’s style staples became popular all over the world with slip dresses, tank tops, leather jackets and velvet coats becoming fashion necessities.
The fashion industry has undergone enormous changes since the 1990’s. The widespread popularity of the internet has remarkably impacted the business, allowing ordinary people access to a previously exclusive world. While to a certain extent trends are still dictated to us from the runway, apps like Instagram and TikTok have facilitated the public gaining more control over fashion trends. In recent years, Instagram accounts dedicated to the 1990’s and y2k aesthetics have emerged, resulting in Gen Z’s newfound love for the decade. The resale website, Depop, has stated that searches for ‘y2k’ and ‘low rise jeans’ were among the most popular in 2021. Film photographs of Kate Moss smoking a cigarette in a club or paparazzi shots of JFK Jr on the streets of 1990’s New York evoke feelings of a carefree time before social media. As Gen Z grew up in an internet saturated age, the feeling of being ‘in the moment’ is incredibly appealing and has resulted in the comeback of 90’s fashion.
This resurgence is well documented from Olivia Rodrigo at the White House in a 1995 Chanel suit to Lily Rose Depp and Lila Moss acting as Generations Z’s it girls, undoubtedly a part of their appeal is the nostalgia their famous parents provide. The 2020’s take on the 90’s has been adopted by these celebrities and influencers. Bucket hats, Dr Martens, Levi’s 501’s, slip dresses and shoulder bags have once again become commonplace in the fashion world.
As time passes, the trend cycle continues to evolve and change. However, the 1990’s consistently continues to inspire designers, influencers, and young people. There is something enthralling and quite magical about the decade, something that perhaps can only be appreciated in hindsight, as we reminisce over fashion and culture before the internet changed the way we live.