Indian model and celebrity Rakhi Sawant appeared in an episode of India’s contemporary talk show – Koffee with Karan which was met with widespread discussion that continues to this day. Rakhi’s openness to receiving procedures for enhancement was met with a slew of hate at the time but has gone on to gain praise over the years. The change in perception is attributed to the change in perceptions about plastic surgery where India contributes to 7.4% of the global market in Reconstructive Surgery.
The perception of plastic surgery has seen a notable shift since the 1940s when advertisements of all forms on cosmetic surgeries were eventually banned by The American Medical Association as their promotion was deemed unethical. Furthermore, the emergence of the American Association of Aesthetics and Medicine Surgery made efforts to formulate safer ways to perform reconstructive surgery which saw the emergence of its landmark product – Botox. After assessing the safety and effectiveness of Botox treatments, it was finally approved by The FDA and first advertised in 2002. There was a major shift in terms of celebrity participation and individual understanding of Reconstructive Surgery – literally and metaphorically.
Increased advertising of Plastic Surgery slowly led to it being seen in a positive light, garnering acceptance. It began to be seen as a way of gaining agency over one’s own body by making an active choice to have a sharper appearance, particularly within the modelling industry where females with a symmetrical facial structure were preferred over counterparts. Furthermore, scientists have researched and declared Gigi Hadid’s jawline to be “the most perfect jawline in the world” and Stella Maxwell’s side profile to be the most sought after. The game changer in making The Plastic Surgery market a billion-dollar industry however, is attributed to one app – Snapchat.
Snapchat changed the game by introducing Augmented Reality (or AR) into its app. The features would allow the users to enhance their facial features by making one’s face look refined and clear of any acne or scars with fuller lips. This feature is reminiscent of the photoshop tools
According to statistics released by The American Society of Plastic Surgeons in 2023, cosmetic surgeries such as liposuction, breast augmentation and tummy tuck were the top 3 areas which were among rising popularity. Minimally invasive surgeries such as botox (and other alternatives), hyaluronic procedures, and skin resurfacing procedures have also seen an increase. These categories have had a steady growth since the pandemic where individuals have been receiving treatments in areas that constitute the first feature an individual comes across – their face and neck.
The growth of plastic surgery can be attributed to the introduction of Snapchat’s Augmented Reality feature – filters. Photo Filters are extra additions to the face that, when selected, enhance the face and make it look smoother and sharper, while also removing acne scars. While this has been a practice adopted by magazine editors to make models appear thinner by editing the size of their waists or airbrushing their faces to remove any signs of acne, Instagram and Snapchat made this practice available to everyone on their mobile phones.
Explicit advertising and the introduction of photo filters have served as an impetus, accessing Plastic Surgery. Celebrity acknowledgements to their doctors, perched at LA’s most expensive neighbourhood – Beverly Hills, have seen an influx of patients wanting to receive the same enhancements. Clients are often seen referencing facial features of high profile celebrities like Kim Kardashian or Gigi Hadid for enhancements as opposed to approaching them for medically required surgeries in case of illness. The growing trend of using celebrities as references for facial enhancements leads to a homogenisation of beauty among different women. A stark example can be seen in real time where Dr Ricciardo Frati of Frato Cosmetic Surgery from London where he claims the existence of “five faces of modern beauty,”- a list of facial feature enhancements to match the look of five popular celebrities that range from Bella Hadid and Kate Moss. A combination of social media algorithms favouring clean aesthetics and symmetry along with pre-existing beauty standards has an interesting and unintended consequence — Everyone now looks the same! Beauty has become more homogenised where celebrity references are given to surgeons and aestheticians in order to achieve an ideal standard of beauty.
The homogenisation of beauty and its social media influence speaks to a wider and all pervasive issue faced by regular users in a digital age. Social media has increased the desire to be accepted socially and validated by peers based on ones outer appearances. This phenomenon is known as “Pretty Privilege” because of which women meeting a certain beauty standard are forgiven for things that may be deviant over women who aren’t considered as conventionally attractive, fuelling the desire for more cosmetic enhancements. This Psychological toll only contributes to the business model of The Plastic Surgery industry, preying on the amplified self-esteem issues women face.
In order to control the homogenisation of beauty standards, the first and foremost step is to treat each client with cultural sensitivity. Cultural sensitivity allows the consideration of the client’s primary source of influence which is imperative for a more comprehensive, transparent, and accurate treatment plan. Individuality is seen as fading from different facets of life, whether its fashion, music or books. Reinforcing cultural diversity by showcasing diverse results allows different voices to be heard and keeps one’s individuality intact. After all, beauty is seen through the fine lines of a life that’s lived.