Emily Solley currently studies English Literature at Florida State University. This semester, she’s adventuring abroad to Florence, Italy to study Italian Reading and Conversation, a special topic art history class on the Florentine Renaissance and Comparative Politics: European Union. This column has two purposes. First, to share the opportunity of experiencing a different country with those of you are still in the U.S. (and hopefully convince you to study abroad yourself) and second, to share helpful information with those who are currently studying abroad. This week in “When in Florence,” Emily gives you the details on the things you absolutely cannot miss in Fiesole!
The allure of Florence stretches far beyond its populated center. Situated in the center of the rolling Tuscan countryside, any visit to the city is wasted without a short journey to the nearby hillside town, Fiesole, which offers an interesting look at archeological remains of both the Etruscan and Roman settlements and an impressive view of Florence from above. Even on a cloudy day, you will be able to see the easily recognizable landmarks we visited last week and truly appreciate Florence’s enchanting beauty.
Fiesole first served as an important part of the Etruscan confederacy. You will have a unique opportunity to walk among the since crumbled walls and long buried structures. Perhaps most interesting is the singular experience of witnessing history layered on top of history: the Etruscan ruins lie beneath a newer Roman complex. It’s not hard to understand the ingenuity of the Roman Empire when looking at the still stable Roman theatre and technically complex Roman bathhouse, which had running cold, warm, and hot water, and a self-cleaning toilet area.
After all, the layers of cultures and civilizations are key to Italy’s charm. Long gone eras of human history coexist with modernity. Each year, there are news articles about construction halting in Italian cities as workmen uncover previously undiscovered Roman ruins. In any Italian settlement, human hands have left their mark for thousands of years. Florence and Fiesole are no exceptions.
The remains of a Roman theatre in Fiesole. The theatre is still used for performances during the summer.
Courtesy: Emily A Solley
Consider the impressive demonstration of Roman architecture as you wander through the archeological site. The theatre is built in the Greek style, taking advantage of the naturally existing hillside to provide the amphitheater style seating. If you look closely at the bottom of the seating area, you will be able to tell which stones are original to the site. Along the back, you can see the side entrances and exits and imagine Roman performers waiting for their cue to step onto the stage. Roman performances were open to all citizens, so there would have been a mixed crowd of powerful Senators, wealthy townspeople and merchants, and “commons.”
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Arches in the Roman baths, separating two pools from each other.
Courtesy: Emily A Solley
Just as Roman theatre was a social event, the bathhouses were a center of community life. Unlike modern life, bathing and hygiene were not stigmatized, and Romans would have comfortably chatted while resting in the pools and taking advantage of the highly hygienic latrines. Water was a huge concern when constructing a new Roman settlement, as access to clean water and public baths were a key concern of the hygiene-conscious Romans.
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The brick furnaces in the Roman bathhouse. Here, slaves would have worked all day to heat water for the warm baths.
Courtesy: Emily A Solley
Beyond cultural significance, the baths are also an engineering feat. Water was heated to various temperatures for the three baths, and the brick furnaces are mostly intact thousands of years later. Archaeologists suspect that some of the structures were used for water purification. As you wander around the edge of the sprawling baths, following the walls that mark the boundaries, consider the amount of planning and time it took to build the still stable complex.
The view of Florence from the top of Fiesole.
Courtesy: Emily A Solley
Just outside the entrance to the ruins is a road that will take you to one of the most spectacular scenic views of Florence. This photo truly doesn’t do it justice. Even on a cloudy day, the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio were impossible to miss. Even lesser landmarks were easily distinguished, with the contrast between the lush green hills, the orange and yellow buildings, and the soft white cathedrals and monuments creating a view it is near impossible to walk away from.
When you do tear yourself from the cliff, consider continuing up the steps to the San Francesco Monastery, a 14th century Cathedral with spectacular frescos and a stunning interior. The monastery deserves more than a side mention, but stay tuned for a forthcoming post about the most beautiful churches in Florence.Â