Emily Solley currently studies English Literature at Florida State University. This semester, she’s adventuring abroad to Florence, Italy to study Italian Reading and Conversation, a special topic art history class on the Florentine Renaissance and Comparative Politics: European Union. This column has two purposes. First, to share the opportunity of experiencing a different country with those of you are still in the U.S. (and hopefully convince you to study abroad yourself) and second, to share helpful information with those who are currently studying abroad. This week in “When in Florence,” Emily gives you all of the details on the things you absolutely cannot miss in Siena!
This week, a brief journey from Florence’s busy streets will feel more like being transported through a time machine. Having explored Roman ruins, it’s time to see what Italian civilizations looks like when it’s perfectly preserved. Welcome to the charming Siena, which has hardly changed since the Middle Ages. Below you’ll find five of my favorite sites, including brief historical context. But for the most part, I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Façade of Duomo di Siena (Santa Maria Assunta)
Courtesy: Emily A. Solley
Santa Maria Assunta is well worth the steep climb it takes to reach it. The west-facing façade is a mix of Gothic, Romanesque, and Classical architecture unlike any other in Italy – and maybe even the world. Work on the façade ran throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, although some features such as the central bronze door and gable mosaics are more recent additions. This picture fails to capture the extravagant sculptures that cover every available surface, or the interesting way the sunlight and shadows make the whole church seem alive.
Inside of Duomo di Siena
Courtesy: Emily A. Solley
Once you manage to tear yourself away from the marble sculptures on the outside of Santa Maria Assunta, give your neck a ten second break as you walk through the door… and immediately have to look up again to admire the stunning ceiling. Allow your eyes to travel down to the busts of the Popes staring down at you and finally the unique striping on the columns; black and white are Siena’s heraldic colors, and are emphasized throughout the interior. The effect is dizzying, especially with the overwhelming decoration on every available surface, which is in stark contrast to the Florentine Duomo’s largely bare interior. Even the floor is an impressive sight, with mosaics featuring 56 panels with Old Testament scenes. Usually, only certain panels are uncovered, depending on the time of year. More pictures of Santa Maria Assunta can be found at the bottom of the article.
Piccolomini Library
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Courtesy: Emily A. Solley
Also within Santa Maria Assunta, the Piccolomini library was built in honor of Pope Pius II, originally Sienan cardinal Enea Silvio Piccolomini. The library features Pope Pius II’s manuscript collection (mainly choir books) and a series of frescoes that tell his life’s story. On the ceiling, the mosaics have mostly mythical subject matter, which is interesting subject matter for a library built in the memory of a Pope. Once again, the floor is also worth a look, with the famous “Story of Fortune” explaining the road to knowledge.
Courtesy: Emily A. Solley
For book lovers, musicians, and theologians, the series of massive choir books with beautiful illumination and medieval notation are a must-see.
Piazza del Campo and Palazzo Pubblico
Courtesy: Emily A. Solley
No visit to Siena is complete without seeing the location of the famous Palio, one of the longest-running and most dangerous horseraces in the world. Without an exciting race going on, Piazza del Campo is charming and will probably make you want to lie on the ground and enjoy the surrounding architecture. Consider a visit to the Palazzo Pubblico, which is filled with interesting artifacts from Siena’s history and a series of beautiful, allegorical frescos. You can also climb the tower to get an ideal view of the Tuscan countryside.
Tuscan Hills
Courtesy: Emily A. Solley
Finally, take a moment to venture to the edge of the city and look out over the Tuscan hills. On a perfect day like the one pictured above, you can see for miles in every direction and truly appreciate the region that has far more to offer than just Florence.