Do you know where your clothes came from, or why you even like them? Were they the newest aesthetic trend on TikTok? Was your style derived from a subculture, representative of a way of life, a type of person or is it purely aesthetic? For instance, consider the “streetwear” aesthetic.
Oversized clothing, graphic tees, and sneakers were popularized by New York hip-hop in the late ’70s. This type of fashion was derived from cultural expression and the experience of urban Black America. Now, the aesthetics of this culture are appropriated from those completely outside its origins or demographics.
Many people, including celebrities, adopt different aesthetics to change their image. However, they often do this solely for the visual appeal without taking the time to understand the cultural roots behind these styles. Subcultures are treated like costumes that can be worn and discarded at will. This raises the question: why is this appropriation such a significant issue for subcultures everywhere?
Subculture is often defined as a group of people who share beliefs that set them apart from popular culture. It has existed as long as there has been a mainstream culture to oppose it. With the rise of “punk” in the ’70s, subculture exploded, and, like many others, it was formed around music. They often have political ties and are created during times of political hardship, as an alternative way for voices to be heard. The people in these cultures tend to have a shared set of ethics and beliefs.
For instance, the punk subculture was created from the ideas of anti-authority, anti-establishment and DIY spirit. Some subcultures are less political, like the goth subculture, which emphasizes individualism, spirituality and introspection. Still, there is some sort of connection among members.
Today, many argue we are witnessing the “death of subculture.” This is due to an emphasis on aesthetic elements of subculture, as opposed to beliefs, music or other elements of cultural participation. This conversation has been occurring since the early rise of the internet, though it has seen more prominence since the pandemic years.
With the rise of the internet, images of subculture became more accessible. Images of punk fashion are readily available in a Google search. No longer is going to an actual punk show necessary to be exposed to the culture.
Since the pandemic, it seems the culture has been completely captivated with the idea of different “aesthetics.” Cottagecore, dark academia, y2k etc. The rise of aesthetics may be for a few different reasons. It was a way to interact with others while in isolation periods. It was also a form of escapism from the bleak life of quarantine, with aesthetics like dark academia and cottage core allowing people the chance to romanticize a world without COVID-19.
Subculture in today’s social media landscape has evolved into a costume. Something to try on, take photos in and discard when the next aesthetic comes along. Aesthetics on Instagram pages sell an easily identifiable image of oneself to others. After all, the algorithm needs specifics in order to reach larger audiences. We don’t need to get to know a person, we have an image of their personality based on the aesthetic they adorn.
With the aesthetic takeover of TikTok, it makes it easier for corporations to sell their idea of subculture. TikTok shops can sell massively produced fashions based on subculture, marketing something new when the next aesthetic takes over. This form of appropriation ignores the actual people who are members of the subculture or the origins of the subculture.
It is, however, impossible to completely dismiss the positive effects of the internet on subculture. The internet makes it easier for anyone to find like-minded people, no matter how disconnected they are from the rest of the world.
Subculture often gives those a better view into their own identity, and the internet makes it easier to discover. While aesthetics aren’t everything, it can be a door into deeper conversations regarding politics and beliefs. Subculture today may have just evolved, not died, by moving online, as in person-meeting of any kind become less common.
So, is subculture dead? It may change, develop and go away for a bit, but it’s not dead. Not letting a superficial aesthetic takeover is the way to keep subculture alive. Remember, some of the most fashionable individuals express their unique styles that truly reflect their personalities. Their clothes come from their interests, their hobbies and their culture. Clothes aren’t a performance; they are a reflection.
Take some time to learn about yourself, then learn how you want to dress. A hyper-focus on adhering to a certain “aesthetic” might not be the truest expression of yourself. If you have a better idea of your own identity, you will be less susceptible to corporations marketing the next big “aesthetic” or appropriated subculture.