Tràng Tiền street – from past to present.
In the heart of Hanoi — the historical district Hoàn Kiếm — rests a small street called Tràng Tiền, which is one of the most visited streets by both local people and tourists in Hanoi. The beginning of Tràng Tiền street is located in front of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, the symbol of Hanoi, and the end is situated near Hanoi Opera House.
Tràng Tiền is quite a small street, approximately 710m long (0.4 miles). However, many important venues are located on this street such as L’espace, the French cultural center owned by the French Embassy which holds many events such as book launching events; Tràng Tiền Plaza, one of the first shopping centers in Vietnam; and the Vietnam National Drama Theater.
Since 2016, Tràng Tiền street has been one of the walking streets in Hanoi. From Friday night to Sunday night, 16 streets around the Hanoi Old Quarter are reserved exclusively for pedestrians. Vehicles are prohibited from entering. Hanoi walking streets were opened to offer local residents and tourists a relaxing and entertaining space after a stressful working week, as well as offer a space to hold cultural events. In 2018, the European Union Delegation in Vietnam, along with other European embassies, held a three-day program called “European Village” aiming to bring a miniature Europe to the heart of Hanoi. Apart from the cultural events, people also set up their own activities on the streets, from the traditional game Ô ăn quan (transliterates as Mandarin Square Capture) to a more contemporary one like jenga. On Tràng Tiền street, children typically ride on mini electric cars, while the adults usually stop by a street vendor to enjoy the crispy golden bánh tráng nướng (fried rice paper with savory toppings), an ideal rescuer for random cravings, and xoài chấm muối ướt (mango dipped in chilli salt), a fruity treat for the summer.
Echoing the Childhood Nostalgia of Kem Tràng Tiền (Tràng Tiền Ice Cream).
Dropping by Kem Tràng Tiền (Tràng Tiền Ice Cream) parlor — a Hanoi specialty — has become a habit of every Hanoian and tourist, both domestic and foreign, whenever strolling down Tràng Tiền street. The store is named after the street, and has been in operation since 1958. According to Nhan Dan online magazine, Tràng Tiền Ice Cream was one of the first brands that sold ice cream at an affordable price (the current price ranges from $0.30 to $1.00). Before Vietnam’s liberation from the French colony in 1945, ice cream had been a luxury product. Therefore, although ice cream is now widely available in Hanoi with much more diverse flavors, Tràng Tiền ice cream store is always crowded with customers of all ages. According to Hanoimoi News, to the elders, the ice cream is a reminder of their time during the bao cấp era (subsidized economy), when they biked tens of miles and waited in long lines for hours just to buy the ice cream. To the young adults, it always remains an indispensable treat for Hanoi’s sticky summer, reminiscent of a tender, carefree childhood.
Tràng Tiền Ice Cream flavors consist of cacao, vanilla, sữa dừa (coconut milk), đậu xanh (mung bean) and cốm (green rice), served either on a popsicle stick or in a cone. Mung beans, green rice and coconut are common ingredients in Vietnam, and cốm is the most popular Hanoi specialty in the autumn. Recently, the brand has added three new flavors: taro, matcha and strawberry chocolate. Mochi ice cream was also added to the menu. The cacao cone used to be my most favorite, for the bitterness of the cacao can ease the buttery sweetness of the milk. Yet, as taro was introduced, I immediately fell for this pastel purple popsicle. With the popsicle stick, I can fully enjoy the nutty taste of the taro without the cone’s crispy interference.
I created a poll on an Instagram story about preference of Tràng Tiền Ice Cream’s flavors. About 210 Vietnamese adults from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh city responded who were mostly between 16 and 24 years old. The most favorite flavors among them were cacao and coconut milk, whereas mung bean is the least popular choice. Personally, although Vietnamese desserts that have mung beans are always irresistible to me, I’m not that fond of mung bean ice cream either because it is too buttery. The coconut milk ice cream has mini coconut shreds in it, which is quite chewy when eating. Quang Anh, a 19-year old Hanoian who has been studying abroad in Australia since 2017, elaborates on his fondness of coconut milk flavor: “Just simply because it’s delicious. It’s quite a Vietnamese flavor, because I usually associate coconut as one of Vietnam’s signature fruits. Vietnamese put coconut in many dishes, such as chè (Vietnamese sweet dessert). We [Vietnamese] drink coconut water too, or at least my mother drinks it a lot.”
Taro and Matcha Popsicle
One bite of ice cream can transport young Hanoians on a journey back to the past. Hà Phương Nguyễn, 20, a Hanoian who has been living in Hanoi for her entire life, recalls: “When I was small, my father worked in Đinh Lễ street (about 2-minute walk away from Tràng Tiền Ice Cream shop). He was usually at work on weekends, so my mother, I and my sibling would eat somewhere nearby, then hang out with dad together. My sibling and I always opted for the vanilla cone, while mom and dad went for mung bean and coconut milk respectively. Then they usually switched [each other’s ice cream]. My parents told me incessantly not to eat from the bottom of the cone, for the ice cream could leak through the cone. But, you know, children hardly ever listen to their parents. So by the time we walked out of the store, melted ice cream had already dripped on my hand.”
Minh Khuê, 19, a Hanoi local, echoes a similar sentiment toward childhood memories when she did not have tiresome adult responsibilities that weighed her down: “I love green rice ice cream so much; it’s such a Hanoian flavor. It reminds me of those days when I was young, having nothing to worry about. On sunny days, my maternal grandmother and aunt usually bought green rice ice cream for me. Foot ache, hand ache or whenever I cried, this ice cream could cure everything.”
Tràng Tiền Ice Cream renovated its physical store in May 2020. The store was redecorated, both the storefront and the inside. The number of counters selling ice cream was reduced, and the wall was painted with images of Vietnam back in the old days. Reducing the number of selling counters, customers will have to wait longer to buy the ice cream; however, the space where the old counters where is now a seating area for the customers to have a look at the art wall and take photos while enjoying the ice cream. Danh Hoàng, 20, who has lived in Hanoi all his life, experienced a minor shock when visiting the renovated shop: “I was so surprised. The place looks much brighter. More trees and flowers are also planted inside the store, giving the store a more refreshing and calming look. Looking at the new store, I can see that my city [Hanoi] is developing rapidly. This beautiful appearance will attract more tourists.”
Trang Tien Ice Cream Parlor Storefront
Inside the Store
Counters Selling Ice Cream
Painted Wall and Customers Enjoying Their Ice Cream
The slogan also changed from “Cảm nhận hương vị truyền thống” (transliterated as “A Taste of the Traditional Flavors”) to “Hương vị vượt thời gian” (“Time-Transcending Flavors”). The new slogan evokes a sense that the flavor of Tràng Tiền Ice Cream will be forever imprinted in Vietnamese people’s minds. Tràng Tiền’s ice cream is not only about a taste of Vietnamese traditional and common ingredients, but also a taste of memories. Although sometimes the store can get too crowded, it doesn’t stop the customers from queuing and waiting for their turn to buy the ice cream. Coming to the parlor and enjoying the ice cream means searching for the past, nourishing a sense of belonging to our childhood and memories and to our city Hanoi.
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