New York Fashion Week always has unanticipated moments, and this month was no exception. There was a unifying thread of freedom and flattery across many shows, with brands exhibiting unfettered technical prowess and creative liberty. Several collections exuded lighthearted energy, eschewing any bit of self-seriousness. Looks were elevated by refined tailoring and a sense of strength and elegance, which created immersive universes. Here were the top moments from the week that I found most mesmerizing.
Carolina Herrera
Wes Gordon’s ability to maintain the DNA of the uber-femme Herrera brand while imbuing it with a fresh coolness makes his succession particularly sublime. In this collection, he continued to flex his sartorial muscles and prove his mastery of the Herrera roots. The creative director showed dedication to ethereal craftsmanship while experimenting with color blocking, particularly with a showstopping silk ball gown with a black halter neck and yellow skirt. He implemented the brand’s penchant for flair in a fire engine red jacket with leg of mutton sleeves. Also, as usual in Carolina Herrera collections, there were gorgeous florals, like a bubblegum pink mini dress embroidered with an oversized rosette at the bodice—a design that proved Gordon’s endorsement of whimsy in fashion.
Tory Burch
Tory Burch’s sportswear-inspired Spring 2025 collection embodied a sense of defiant sophistication. Her high-waist wide-leg pants were paired with striped knit polos, proving that edgy and polished are not mutually exclusive styles, while the asymmetric ruffled skirts stressed zestful self-expression for the woman who plays by her own rules. The return of the iconic Reva ballet flat was also heartwarming to see.
Alaïa
Clean and smooth lines, boundless volume, and exquisite sculptural work were the name of the game at Alaïa. A billowing watermelon pink fur coat appeared as a swirling cotton ball from afar, adding drama to the runway. Meanwhile, cocooning, sheer pants and dropped-waist bubble skirts emphasized form and unbridled movement.
Sandy Liang
The queen of coquette once again proved her refusal to let her youthful heart abate. Sandy Liang continued her love affair with bows and embraced saccharine style with a mini pink flower dress that had a tiny bow draped around the bodice like a sash. Also particularly noteworthy was a cloud-like sheer floral-embellished dress that added texture to the collection.
Across the board, brands entered a new territory of depth and subversiveness, showcasing numerous compelling odes to the modern woman. The future of New York fashion is looking brighter than ever.