Caped in Legacy: Honoring André Leon Talley and the Legacy of Black Dandyism at the 2025 Met Gala
Billowing capes, impeccably matched gloves, and towering grand headpieces are all distinct highlights of André Leon Talley’ famous looks. While not confirmed, his iconic style is believed to be a major inspiration for the 2025 Met Gala theme, to honor his life and his lasting contributions to the Black community in fashion.
While no Met Gala theme is ever straightforward, some are more controversial than others. The theme for the 2025 Met Gala, which is famously always on the first Monday in May, has stirred up discussion within the fashion community, as well as the Black community. On October 9, 2024, Vogue announced the next theme will be “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” focusing on “Black Dandy” as its subject, examining the importance of clothing and style to the formation of Black identities in the American Diaspora.”
This theme isn’t simply an opportunity for celebrities to wear their typical extravagant gowns drenched in sequins and dragging voluminous trains. Rather, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” honors the legacy of Black style and culture, and engages in an important conversation which must be properly addressed — and properly dressed for.
While the Black community shares a rich, interconnected history, perspectives on this theme reveal a variety of feelings and beliefs. Cosmopolitan writer Ayan Artan expresses his excitement, but also his expectations for the night of the event. He shares, “Black media and fashion commentators should be given priority access to cover the carpet, Black stylists should be working with all the guests, Black designers showcased in the exhibit and on the carpet, Black makeup and hair teams working with the talent.”
As someone who is not a part of the Black community, I recognize the importance of stepping back and reflecting on my own role in this discussion. With such a distinct theme strongly anchored in a particular cultural experience, I’ve found myself asking what does it mean to attend an event like this? Given the importance of Black contributions to fashion and culture, it’s critical to approach it with respect, support, and celebration.
A crucial part of understanding and therefore properly approaching the theme is educating ourselves on its history and cultural context. As I mentioned, André Leon Talley’s impact on the fashion community serves as a strong foundation for the 2025 theme. His style expressed the core of the Black Dandy, a key focus of Monica L. Miller’s Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. This book looks at how members of the Black community in the Atlantic diaspora have utilized fashion and style to express themselves and shape their identities. I greatly respect and applaud Talley’s power, not just through his fashion choices but through his advocacy and intellect, before his passing in 2022.
Superfine: Tailoring Black Style as a theme perfectly reflects Talley’s relationship with and contributions to fashion, in his style as a symbol of Black excellence in fashion. The focus on “tailoring black style” also celebrates the story of fashion in Black culture, specifically the importance of craftsmanship and precision within it. While much of the skills in fashion today take inspiration from the materiality of Black culture, it rarely gets the recognition it deserves.
This theme honors not just an icon of the Black community in fashion, but also the underrepresented and underappreciated legacy of Black artistry in tailoring and the foundation of fashion as a whole. Superfine: Tailoring Black Style invites us to approach fashion with an eagerness to learn about the deeper story from which it stems and evolves — particularly regarding cultures that have often been marginalized in history, like the Black community. On behalf of the fashion lovers, I look forward to seeing how members of the Black community, and their collaborators (designers, stylists, etc.) are celebrated this upcoming May.