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While Luca Guadagnino’s Challengers drew audiences with its gripping love triage and intense tennis matches, it was the film’s costume design that truly captivated fashion enthusiasts. Each outfit was carefully crafted by costume designer (and creative director of Loewe) Jonathan Anderson to reflect the underlying tension and complexities of the protagonists.
At its core, Challengers tells the story of three people searching for something missing in their lives, with tennis as the thread that binds them together. Tashi Dancun (Zendaya), Art Donaldson (Mike Faist), and Patrick Zweig (Josh O’Connor) are entwined in each other’s lives, unable to break free from one another. Anderson’s costume design underscores this dynamic.
A standout feature of the costume design is the strategic use of colour, which symbolizes the contrasting personalities of Partick and Art, aptly described as “fire and ice” in the film. Patrick embodies confidence and charisma, reflected in his demeanour and dynamic tennis style. In contrast, Art is more reserved and calculated, often adapting to his surroundings like ice.
Their tennis rackets further illustrate this dichotomy in the 2006 match: Art wields a blue racket while Patrick’s is red. This motif was later echoed in 2019 when they used complementary colours to reinforce their complex relationship.
The use of colour is also significant in Tashi’s introduction, as she appears in white, which is a fitting choice by Anderson as white represents the convergence of all colours in the spectrum. The screenplay describes her as a blend of fire and ice, reflecting her complex nature. By the 2019 New Rochelle match, she dons a blue and white Loewe dress shirt, symbolizing her ongoing struggle between Patrick and Art and highlighting her divided loyalties.
The costume design further breathes life into the characters, illustrating how their experiences have shaped them. This evolution is evident in Tashi’s transition from vibrant jewel tones in her youth — like the blue custom Loewe dress at the Adidas event and her pink Juicy Couture top to more neutral colours as she matures.
In an interview with W Magazine, Anderson remarked that people often “aspire to this same thing, which becomes slightly generic” once they become successful. This sentiment is reflected in the designer brands Tashi wears, highlighting the authenticity she lost following her accident in 2009.
Another poignant way we see the accident’s impact on Tashi is through her hair. Before the incident, she maintained a polished appearance, often styling her hair in sleek, neat ponytails. However, months after the incident, her hair becomes dishevelled, mirroring her emotional turmoil as she grapples with her inability to recover.
By 2010, when she meets Art at Applebee’s to discuss coaching him, her hair has been cut shorter, falling just above her shoulders. This evolution continues into 2019, when her hair is even shorter. These changes in Tashi’s hairstyle not only signify the passage of time but also reflect her struggles, illustrating her journey of coping with loss and the complexities of her identity.
Interestingly, another aspect of the costume design that ties to the story is the shared clothing among the characters, as it further emphasizes their deep connections and intertwined lives. 2009 Patrick wears Art’s green button-down shirt when Tashi visits their hotel room. This choice could be seen as a subconscious effort to channel Art, especially since he and Tashi had bonded over their decision to pursue higher education before carrying on with professional tennis.
Fast forward to 2009, and we see Patrick donning Tashi’s grey “I Told Ya” shirt, a nod to JFK Jr.’s iconic shirt (which has now become a fan staple). Later in 2019, Tashi is seen in Art’s white shirt when she meets Patrick moments before betraying Art. These clothing exchanges symbolize their complex relationships and the blurred lines between love, loyalty, and betrayal.
These elements are just the tip of the iceberg regarding the depth of contemporary costume design, which is often underestimated in its narrative significance. Through thoughtful choices in clothing, hairstyles, and colours, designers can convey intricate layers of character development and emotional complexity.
Challengers showcase how costume design enhances visual storytelling and enriches the audience’s understanding of the characters’ journeys, making it a crucial aspect of cinematic art.