Every year, fashion lovers around the globe wait for the announcement of the Met Gala theme. Most want to hear about what our favorite celebrities might wear for the upcoming year. Who will be there, hosting, and most importantly, what will they wear? I could not wait as a fashion history nerd. I’ve loved the themes in recent years. Last year’s “Sleeping Beauties” and the two years of “In America” were amazing representations of fashion history and many celebrities understood the assignment. The Met’s announcement also means the start of planning my yearly trip to Manhattan to see the exhibit. For the last couple of years, I have tried to see their yearly Gala exhibits. I was hoping this year would follow delving into history and icons from the past, and that is exactly what the Costume Institute is doing for 2025.
On October 8th, the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Exhibit announced the 2025 theme as “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” The gala will be on May 5th and will be hosted by A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, and Lewis Hamilton. All of them are praised for their fashion sense and ability to push the norm of menswear. Not only are they some of the most fashionable men in entertainment and sports, but, as you will see, they exemplify the theme and the writing that inspired it. Anna Wintour will also return as a host and Lebron James will be an honorary chair. Overall, the 2025 Met Gala will highlight Black culture’s influence on menswear, specifically through the lens of the book Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity by Monica B. Miller.
Monica B. Miller’s novel explores how Black men have used clothing throughout history to shape their identities and break down racial expectations and stereotypes. Miller not only has inspired the theme and exhibition with her writing but she also will be involved in its curation. Further embedding the storytelling of the exhibit with Miller’s extensive research and writing on the topic. You might be wondering, what exactly is dandyism? Its official definition is “one who studies above everything to dress elegantly and fashionably.” Miller’s book focuses on Black male dandyism and how it has been used as a mechanism for progress. She explains that “fashion and dress have been used in a contest of power and aesthetics for Black people from the time of enslavement to the present, and dandyism has long served as a vehicle through which one can manipulate the relationship between clothing, identity, and power”. In addition to racial expectations and barriers, Black dandyism also goes against one-dimensional understandings of masculinity. Miller’s writing highlights the significant history of Black men using clothing as a form of resistance which will be the central focus of this exhibit.
When many think of the Metropolitan Museum and its Gala’s theme, they primarily think of what celebrities will wear. Another equally exciting part for me and many other fans of fashion history is what will be included in the yearly exhibit. The exhibit will feature clothing along with paintings and photos demonstrating the history of Black dandyism starting in the 18th century. The exhibit will not only focus not only on race but class, gender, and sexuality in dandyism. According to GQ, this exhibit will be the first time the costume institute is creating a space dedicated to race, and the first show based on men’s fashion in 20 years.
The exhibit will explore the history of Black dandyism starting with the 18th century. Many of the fashion movements and icons of Black dandyism that you may already be familiar with come from the 20th. Even if you don’t recognize these names or movements, they have influenced the clothes you wear and trends you’ve seen. An example from the early 20th century is zoot suits. These oversized and flamboyant suits were popularized by African American men and became a part of blues and jazz subcultures. Moving into the late 20th century two icons that come up in the discussion of Black Dandyism are Dapper Dan and André Leon Talley. Dapper Dan is a fashion designer based in Harlem in the 1980s. His monogrammed suits popularized the now logomania by incorporating designer logos into his custom designs. Although many luxury fashion houses did not appreciate his work at first it is undeniable the impact logomania has had on designer clothing and streetwear. André Leon Talley was a fashion editor for Vogue in the 1980s and 1990s and advocated for Black models and designers in the magazine. His style included lots of capes, robes, and statement accessories. It is rumored that the Met’s choosing the theme of Black Dandyism is a tribute to him as he passed in 2022. The icons and fashion movements I have mentioned are some of the most significant, but barely scratch the surface of the history of Black dandyism that inspired Miller’s writing and the Met’s theme.
Black Dandyism continues to shape menswear today and many of your favorite musicians, actors, and athletes are modern examples. The greatest examples are those hosting the gala. A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, Lewis Hamilton, and Lebron James. An example of a designer who exemplified Black Dandyism in the 21st century is Virgil Abloh. Abloh was an icon, whose brand and impact remain after passing in 2021. He is best known for his infusing streetwear into luxury brands. From 2018 to 2021 Abloh was the menswear artistic director for Louis Vuitton. He also founded the luxury streetwear brand Off-White in 2012. His Off-White designs and personal style included bold logos, unconventional aspects, and references to Black culture. These men’s style and impact will likely be at the forefront of the Gala in May.
Despite the excitement for having a theme, many on social media have expressed concerns with attendees appreciating and understanding how to implement the theme. Fashion author Cora Harrington has expressed her recommendations for what attendees should wear to appropriately represent the theme. She says that male attendees should wear tailored suits or other structured silhouettes. For women, Harrington recommends channeling the “Dandizette” which includes white dresses and gloves. It is also appropriate for celebrities to work with Black designers and stylists for their looks. Celebrities need to try to appreciate the cultural aspects and implications of what they’re wearing for this year’s Met Gala.
Overall, this year’s theme is an important and exciting exhibit. I can’t wait to see what is worn especially by the hosts and other current Black fashion icons. I am excited to plan my trip to the Metropolitan Museum to see the exhibit. To see garments picked by the woman whose writing inspired the theme will be a unique experience. Not only will this year’s Met Gala be a spotlight on Dandyism and Miller’s work, but it will also be a display of how Black culture and identity have shaped menswear across the globe.