The fight against widespread antagonism of Indigenous medicines and recreational substances seems to be growing in decolonization efforts. One Pacific health researcher believes kava could be a key player. Dr. Apo Aporosa characterizes kava as an “iconic drink” of the “Pacific diaspora” ready to be demystified, decriminalized, and made available for public consumption.
In the midst of this effort to combat skepticism over Indigenous substances is the kava bar MeloMelo. Located along University Avenue, MeloMelo is Berkeley’s first and only destination specializing in kava.
The plant, also referred to as kava kava, is indigenous to the Pacific Islands. It is consumed historically by various Pacific Island cultures for a wide range of medicinal and cultural purposes. When consumed, kava elicits a calming effect. Reports of the extent of this sensation vary. The Seattle Times, for instance, wrote that kava can be comparable to the effects of an “alcoholic cocktail” or “marijuana gummy,” and, more extremely, to MDMA. However, the drink is most often associated with tranquility, a feeling of elation, light dizziness, and, at most, a mild drunk feeling. It is even used as a “natural alternative to anti-anxiety medication.”
MeloMelo sells the traditional drink in sizes ranging from shots to take-home growlers. The drink smells faintly of pepper and tastes bitter with a distinct earthiness. The bar offers a variety of “Kava-Cocktails” that reinvent the drink with familiar twists, including a Piña Colada-inspired concoction. Regardless of how you order your kava, the drink can be sipped quickly (or “downed” like a shot). The effects settle in just as fast.
In efforts to debunk the myths and worries surrounding kava, the bar’s website has a section titled “Kava Knowledge.” This section highlights the history, etymology, and importance of the plant, citing its many uses as “ceremonial, recreational, spiritual, medicinal, political, and cultural.” The section also features “Kava Chemistry,” which familiarizes readers with the plant’s psychoactive ingredients and debunks the rumors that kava is toxic to ingest.
Drinking kava is often paired with the ceremonial act of “Bula.” Kava drinkers clap their hands together and cheer “Bula!”, a Fijian word somewhat equivalent to “Cheers!” in this context. Afterward, they clap twice in gratitude. Bula allows kava enthusiasts to show their appreciation for the plant while growing excitement in the communal space.
On its website, the bar explains its reason for serving Kava:
“At MeloMelo, we elect to recreate this long-lost art of community. We are but one tribe in a very big village. We are here to learn from tradition, and in turn, create our own.”
MeloMelo pays homage to tradition while introducing Berkeley to an important aspect of many Pacific Island cultures. If you are looking for a fresh way to spend a Friday night (especially if you’re under 21!), try out kava at Berkeley’s MeloMelo. Or if you’re looking for a bargain (and a challenge), try the bar’s Whirlpool Wednesday where you can get $2 drinks from 10:00-10:10 pm.