After most award shows, I go straight to the list of everyone’s outfits. I am proudly fashion obsessed. While perusing through Vogue’s collection of celebrity fits and TikToks of Ariana Grande detailing her gown, I couldn’t help but think about the persistence of archival garments used by the rich and famous. A well-done archival look is breathtaking, say for example Jennifer Lawrence in Fall 1996 Givenchy haute couture by Alexander McQueen for the Oscars after-party or Zendaya in Thierry Mugler’s chrome, plexiglass body suit for the Dune Part 2 premiere. There is something about a well-done vintage piece that exudes elegance and a sense of true appreciation for fashion, Vogue itself explained that, “celebrities and their stylists seem to be in an arms race of sorts, clamoring for the most impressive pieces.” However, what does the repeated use of archival fashion mean for emerging designers? Is archival fashion an example of high-class “thrifting” which is good for a world plunged into overconsumption, or is it overshadowing a new generation of designers and their art?
Emerging in any industry is difficult, and emerging in one like Hollywood which has been held firmly in nostalgia’s grasp for years now is even worse. For up and comers in fashion, does archival fashion present a challenge, an inspiration, or is it a combination of both?
Archival fashion relies on the rarity of pieces, yet it has become extremely commonplace on red carpets. It cannot be denied that the industry sees the value in fashion vaults. The MET Gala’s installation for 2024 was Reawakening Fashion: Sleeping Beauties. It was completely based on archival pieces, and as someone who was able to walk through the installation, it was amazing. By presenting the pieces in a museum it emphasized the historical context of the pieces. Archival fashion can “inspire the designs and technology behind some of the industry’s coolest labels.” However, diving into the archive is not always seen as a way of memorializing fashion history and instead may just be a sign that creativity is being stifled due to a nostalgic love for days gone by. A balance should be found between utilizing archival pieces as well as uplifting the creations of new designers. With such a balance, archival fits will truly be impactful instead of being oversaturated. The rarity, the importance, the significance, and the love of these pieces will be fostered. With Archival fashion, I say less is more.
At some point the archival pieces of yesterday must make room for the clothing of today.