Fashion is much more than just fabric and thread – it’s a language of resistance. From the spotless white gowns worn by suffragettes to today’s graphic tees promoting a favorite candidate, clothing has long been a powerful tool for protest, defiance, and social change. Individuals and movements have used fashion to challenge oppression, reclaim their identity, and demand equality. Whether it’s the bold stroke of red lipstick worn in defiance of fascism or the rebellious flare of bell-bottoms for peace, fashion has consistently served as a visual manifesto for crusaders of justice. Fashion isn’t just about what we wear – it’s about what we stand for, a silent yet powerful declaration of our ideas in the face of injustice.
Suffragettes dresses and sashes
In 1913, as thousands of women marched down Pennsylvania Avenue in the historic Suffrage Procession, their clothes spoke much louder than their chants. The National American Woman Suffrage Association, otherwise known as NAWSA, held a procession was a bold display of unity and determination in the fight for a woman’s right to vote. The suffragettes did not choose what to wear by accident though; flowing white gowns with purple and gold sashes made quite the visual statement, being as strategic as it was symbolic. The white dress symbolized purity and respectability against the caricatures of the era that had portrayed the suffragettes as unruly or masculine. The purple stood for loyalty to the nation and democracy, while the gold was for the visual of their hope in their struggle for equality. The ensembles were carefully picked not only for their aesthetic reasons but as a calculated effort to present the suffragettes as dignified, virtuous, and worthy of the right to vote. These women challenged convention in their attire, redefined the modern women’s image, and showed the world that fashion can be just as revolutionary as any speech or rally.
Red lipstick and fascism
Just as the suffragettes used fashion to challenge societal norms, women during World War II made beauty a tool of resistance. Red lipstick became the brightest symbol of patriotism, struggle, and victory over fascism. Lipstick was no longer merely a cosmetic, but rather a response to Adolf Hitler and the Nazi regime’s oppressive ideologies. When Hitler rose to power in 1933, his party worked to redefine the ideal image of a “Perfect German Woman” promoting natural “Aryan” beauty and discouraging the use of cosmetics, jewelry, perfume, and even trousers. These restrictions were a part of a broader effort to erase the vibrant, liberated image of women from the Weimar Republic. Hitler had a particular distrain for lipstick, partly because it was made from animal fats, and as a vegetarian, he found it repulsive. Even Benito Mussolini, Hitler’s ally and leader of Fascist Italy at the time, shared this negative attitude towards makeup as well.
On the other side of the war, Allied women used red lipstick to liberate and unify the forces. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill advocated for its use, knowing its psychological effects on morale. For women on the home front and resistance, red lipstick was more than just a beauty product, it was one of resilience, hope, and rebellion against a regime that had sought to control every aspect of their lives. It was a small yet powerful act of self-expression, they managed to turn an everyday item into a symbol of resistance and victory against fascism.
LEather and Berets
The Black Panther Party, an African American revolutionary organization, used fashion to project strength and resistance in the face of systematic oppression. During the 1960s, the Panthers adopted their iconic uniform: Black berets, leather jackets, and often assault rifles. This militaristic style was not just a fashion choice – but rather a calculated statement of authority and self-determination. Opposing police brutality and economic exploitation against African Americans, they sought to combat this oppression, and their clothing became a visual representation of their mission. The black beret, inspired by revolution movements worldwide, showing their sense of solidarity and discipline, while leather jackets and rifles projected their readiness and defiance. Their attire was designed to demand respect and force fear by challenging the stereotypes and systematic racism Black communities had faced. Far from being proactive, the fashion of the Panthers was a conscious act of grasping dignity and power in a society that sought to strip it away. In their iconic style, they turned clothing into a tool of protest, empowerment, and unapologetic resistance.
Bell-bottoms and hair of the 60s
While the Black Panthers used militaristic fashion to project strength and resistance, the anti-war movement of the 1960s adopted a different sartorial language to challenge societal norms and protest the Vietnam War. The 1960s were a time of profound social upheaval, marked by the Civil Rights movement, the rise of counterculture, and widespread opposition to the Vietnam War. As young people began to question traditional authority and societal norms, fashion became a powerful medium for expressing dissent. For men, growing out their hair became a bold act of rebellion. Long hair, often unkempt and free-flowing, directly opposed the clean-cut, shaven appearance expected of military recruits. It was a symbolic rejection of the draft and the war itself, as well as a broader protest of the rigid gender norms of previous generations. This was a simple, yet radical act of self-expression that allowed young men to visibly align themselves with the anti-war movement and the values of peace, freedom, and individuality. The controversy surrounding long hair even inspired the 1968 musical Hair, which celebrated the counterculture’s rejection of societal expectations and became a cultural touchstone for the era.
Bell-bottoms, another iconic symbol of the 1960s counterculture, carried their own political weight. These flared pants, often purchased from military surplus stores or secondhand shops, were repurposed as a statement against the war and the establishment. Affordable and accessible, bell-bottoms allowed young people to reject the expensive, conservative clothing of their parents’ generation while embracing a more casual, individualized style. Many customized their bell-bottoms by sewing patches or pieces of old military uniforms onto them, further emphasizing their rejection of war and conformity. The popularity of bell-bottoms even reached mainstream fashion, appearing in department store advertisements and becoming a symbol of youth rebellion.
Dr. Martens pathing the way
Dr. Martens boots would become the staple of rebellion for another marginalized group: the LGBTQ+ community. By the early 1980s, Dr. Martens, or “Docs”, had emerged to be worn by queer activists as a symbol of resistance and solidarity. Originally designed for workers, these sturdy boots became a powerful statement of defiance against societal norms and oppression. During the 1980s, with budding LGBTQ+ rights movements, Docs were on the feet of protesters fighting against laws like Section 28 in the UK, banning the “promotion” of homosexuality in schools and local authorities. Activists from organizations like ACT UP, both in the UK and the US, wore their Docs proudly on marches, with leather jackets, shaved heads, and Mohawks looking unapologetically bold. Adopting the firm DIY ideology of punk music, along with the anti-establishment attitude that goes with it, Dr. Martens became for many a rebellious badge of honor; among queer punks, they could be worn in a way to challenge the normative gendered order of things. For the LGBTQ+ community, Dr. Martens were more than a type of footwear; they symbolized resilience – a way to stamp out the status quo and show that even the most marginalized voices could rise and demand change.
Modern Era Flagging
From the suffragettes’ white gowns to the Black Panthers’ leather jackets, from red lipstick as a wartime act of defiance to Dr. Martens as a symbol of queer resistance, fashion has consistently served as a powerful tool for protest. These movements laid the groundwork for how we use clothing and accessories to challenge injustice, reclaim identity, and demand change. Today, these legacies live on in modern political movements, where fashion continues to play a vital role. Graphic tees with slogans like “Black Lives Matter” or “Climate Justice Now,” Pink Pussyhats worn during the Women’s March, and even face masks printed with messages of solidarity during the COVID-19 pandemic show how protest fashion has evolved. Social media has amplified this impact, allowing individuals to share their messages globally and instantly. While the methods and mediums may have changed, the essence remains the same: fashion is a language of resistance, a way to wear your values and make your voice heard. As we move forward, the threads of these historical movements remind us that even the smallest acts of self-expression can weave together a tapestry of change.