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‘Fashion Star’ Hairstylist Theodore Leaf Spills on the Show, Spring Trends, & The Mistake You’re Probably Making

Head honcho of hair on NBC’s Fashion Star, Theodore Leaf is adorable, talented, and busy. Each week, Leaf consults with Fashion Star designers to create looks for their highly addictive, three-look runway shows. With his penchant for “pretty hair” and tell-it-like-it-is attitude, who better to dish on spring runway trends and bad reality-TV hair?
 
What’s your favorite part of styling for Fashion Star?
The most exciting part was doing so many looks. Each designer’s collection was so different, and they wanted hair and makeup to match. We were always thinking of how to change a look, how to go from day to night, curly to straight and back again. We really pushed the envelope, because we want to bring fashion to a bigger audience. This is for everyone!
 
Do clothes always inspire your hairstyles?
The clothes set the tone for any beauty look. We were creating looks for very specific consumers. If your look is sportswear, I’m going to go for that girl. I’m going to create models to reflect that brand. I said, “I have to see the clothes.” I had to force their hand to see the clothes, just as they would come in. It’s always a collaboration between my team and the designer. They’d be thinking down, I’d be thinking up, so we’d do half-up.
 
Let’s get down to it. What looks did you like from the spring runways?
I like pretty hair, and I saw a lot of straight, smooth, and shiny styles. Braids are still big, we can’t get rid of braids because people are getting more creative and watching how-to videos. If you can’t afford a blowout, you can do a braid.
 
What about the bright color-tipped trend?
This is the thing about hair trends: they’re very slow to trickle down. Marc Jacobs did blue hair on the runway three years ago, and now you see it popping up everywhere. If there’s any time in your life to try color, it’s in college. You have nothing to lose. A strand of color is the new hair feathers.
 
Are you still a fan of ombré hair color?
A full head of highlights isn’t modern. I’m naturally blonde, and I add a few highlights and that’s it. On the coast you’re paying for the look. I’ll give you 5 highlights because it will look good. I’m not talking about inches, if you want to talk inches you can renovate a kitchen. One of my clients on Glee has jet black hair and ombré has really brightened her skin tone, she looks like a surfer girl. It’s beautiful down.
 
The it haircut for spring is?
A mid-length shag. It hits the clavicle, it’s super versatile. Everybody has long hair! This looks really luxurious and fresh. Like Katharine McPhee.
 
What do you notice about collegiette hair?
Younger women have a tendency to skip haircuts. You move away from home, and you’re away from the person who has been doing your hair since you were 7 years old. I see crazy-long hair, buns, and not keeping it properly trimmed. If you have long hair, you can wait 8 to 10 weeks between trims.
 
What products do you recommend for collegiettes?
One of my favorites is the Suave Professionals Keratin Infusion dry shampoo. The new Keratin Infusion line is proven to be as effective as Kérastase. Dry shampoo can be weakening, because it absorbs oil. The keratin in Suave counteracts that.
 
I want to look chic this Friday, so I should wear…
A really high top knot, great pair of earrings, and a lip stain. We did top knots on Fashion Star and people really loved it. I’ve created a kit with all the stuff you need to make it perfect! It’s pony, pull, and pin. One pin takes the place of 5 bobby pins, and they come in all shades, so they match your color.
 
You were a finalist on Bravo’s Shear Genius, no?
Shear Genius was super fun, it was the Hair Olympics. I was 22 years old and it was my big break. I met Sally Hershberger, now I work at her salon at LA and I’m holding up a really big team at Fashion Star.
 
As far as reality television goes, who has the worst hair?
The Real Housewives all love the same hairstyle: bad extensions! I don’t find it visually appealing, hair that is all bought and paid for. If you’re going to rock that look, you better have your stylist on hand every minute. But they don’t and it’s crazy! I’m like, “Really, this is real life. Figure out ways to cover it up, honey.”

Alana Peden handles public relations for the one-of-a-kind Austin startup SpareFoot.  Her interests span from how to wield a mascara wand to the intricacies of the 3-4 defense, as does her writing repertoire. She has interned in the beauty departments at Lucky and Good Housekeeping, covered college athletics for Horns Illustrated, and contributed gleefully to Texas Music. Always game for a laugh at her own expense, Alana aspires to one day give the universe back a scintilla of what it gives to her. When she's not reading or writing,  she's planning elaborate outfits for hypothetical situations unlikely to materialize. Please reach Alana here.